Anthony Bourdain was a good man. ‘Tony’ shows us how he became one.

The film’s portrayal of the late chef’s early adulthood shows how Bourdain developed positive masculine values — and resonates amid today’s culture of toxic masculinity.

I am an efficient but unspectacular cook. I have a sense of how long to sear a New York strip steak before putting it in the oven, and on a recent, unseasonably cool August evening, I capably executed a pot roast dinner that furnished leftovers for days. Undoubtedly, my skills are improving, but even if…