Vesper8-10 Exmouth Market, EC1 Meal for two about £240vesper.restaurant The question of whether or not London needs more restaurants, particularly those that might be loosely termed “modern British”, is beside the point. Our desire for seasonal plates, peppered with zeitgeist and a side order of vibes, obviates questions of necessity. This is the business of wanting, not needing. Anyway, nowhere is all of this more true, I suspect, than in the area around Exmouth Market, home to restaurants that range from iconic (Moro, The Eagle) to influential (Caravan, Shawarma Bar) to unabashedly zhuzhy (Morchella, Passione Vino). So after a flicker of surprise, concern even, that Jackson Boxer was opening Vesper, his new, keenly anticipated restaurant, on Exmouth Market, I settled down. London wanted,