The former England midfielder is everywhere at this World Cup, having reached a popularity in the US other Brits have rarely achieved Watch US television for any length of time and the endless spume of adverts will eventually separate into three distinct types. The first are adverts for units of generic food-substance, each one essentially the same hand-sized grenade of glossy and salted micro-minced matter; but each also with its own industrialised repertoire of colours and noise and packaging