Photo by Charlie Bonallack/Millennium Images, UK Another trip to That London, first for the youngest’s birthday, then, after a sleep on the family sofa, to Noble Rot in Soho: the Pint-Sized Polis has passed another one of her brainy exams, and wants to celebrate by taking me and her mother to the restaurant, which has a good set-menu lunch deal. (Three courses for £28, with a glass of wine for each course. The portions are not huge, reminding me of my mother, in New York, looking at a sliver of asparagus and saying to the waiter, “Can you spare it?” – but they are very good.) So we sat upstairs, where Martin Rowson’s oil paintings of Soho nightlife are hung. The last time I was here, I was sitting with Rowson himself, and we had an epic eight-hour lunch, which I wrote about here. I remembe