This was the most extraordinary night of football as an experience of the mind, body, bones, guts and blood “Enn-JOYYY this unforrrgGEDDABLE Fifa Worrrld Cup … expPERRIENCE!!” the strangely guileless American-accented public address had commanded, with 40 minutes still to run before the delayed kick-off in Mexico City. Er. OK then. Looking out over the mist-shrouded cliff face of the Estadio Azteca, drenched to the inner seams in generational rain, throbbing through the chest from the endless wa